Thursday, October 13, 2016

First Local Birding at Bassein Of this Season-Winter 2016

Went for my first local Birding trip of this season yesterday courtesy the Dusshera Holiday. Amazing would be an understatement considering the number and quality of sightings I happened to get. Initially it looked totally dry and felt as if the birds especially the winter migrants were not going to make an appearance as yet but soon the trickle turned into a deluge and I was completely overwhelmed by the gems that obliged me with their sighting.So here’s the list by order of the sightings at Bassein: 

1. Black-winged Stilt (4 Nos.)
2. Laughing Dove (2 Nos.)
3. Indian Cormorant (2 Nos.)
4. Barn Swallows (Flock of around 100-150 )
5. Red-necked Falcon (1 No.)
6. Asian Pied Starling (6 Nos.)
7. Bay-backed Shrike (6 Nos.)
8. Spotted Dove (4-5 Nos.)
9. Asian Openbill (4 Nos.)
10. European Roller (1 No.)
11. Jacobin cuckoo (1 No.)
12. Eurasian Wryneck (1 No.)
13. Indian Golden Oriole (1 No.)
14. Brahminy Starling (2 Nos.)
15. Baya Weaver (8-10 Nos.)
16. Long-tailed Shrike (8-10 Nos.)
17. Rose-ringed Parakeet (10-12 Nos.)
18. Heuglin's gull, (5 Nos.)
19. Ruddy Turnstones,Dunlins, Lesser Sand-Plovers, Terek Sandpipers (Mix Flock of around 200-250) 
20. Common Greenshank (1 Nos.)
21. Yellow-eyed Babbler (1 No.)
22. Hume's Whitethroat (1 No.)
23. Siberian Stonechat (1 No.)
24. Rosy Starling (3 Nos.)
25. Chestnut-tailed Starling (2 Nos.)
26. Desert Wheatear (1 No.)

Friday, September 2, 2016


I still remember the day I first saw her. It’s kinda amazing if you ask me. Its amazing coz it’s been years since the first day that I saw her and I still remember it like it was yesterday.
She was the perfect shy girl. The kind who hides behind her mother when guests come over... It was the first day of the first grade. I remember kids crying all around me. Some clung to their mothers, some threw tantrums. If I didn’t know better, I would say they were going to whip us and make us work. But they didn’t, actually compared to what I am doing now, those days were fun. Actually, compared to any days those days were fun.
She walked past me with her eyes fixed to the ground. Her bag was pink and so was her complexion. I love innocence. I guess all men do. I think we value it so much coz of our utter incapability to be innocent ourselves.
She went inside the classroom and took the first bench. I took the second. Right behind her. Then the teacher came and asked me to move to the last bench. I hate being tall. Apparently I was blocking the view of the blackboard for the guys sitting behind me. So I got up and took the last bench. And that was the end of that.
I strictly believe our choices don’t change overtime. We like the same kind of people all our lives. If you don’t agree, ask yourself who was your best friend in school and who’s your best friend now(if both are the same guy, there are fewer people luckier than you), then try to analyze their qualities- you ll find that a lot of those qualities match.
I liked the same girl all my school life. People wonder when I tell them that I couldn’t talk to her for almost all of primary school, except for the one time when we had an exam and I forgot a pencil. She was sitting three benches in front of me (the closest we had been till then). I got up from my seat and asked her for a pencil. She looked at me for around 4 seconds. Then quietly took out a pencil and gave it to me- "This pencil writes very fast,” she said.Then I didn’t know why she said that. But years later she told me that she had seen my mother scold me for not being able to complete the paper on time.
Now don’t translate this into love. She didn’t love me then. Maybe she liked me. But not more than that. I think till girl’s don’t reach puberty, the only people they can love is their parents. I, I loved her. Men can love at any age. Infact men can love anyone at any age; maybe they are more individualistic or stuff.
As we grew up, her liking for me increased. Or maybe it was just my imagination. But I found her glancing at me. She now tells me that she used to glance at me coz I used to keep staring at her! It would be impolite for her not to even glance. We men are idiots, we give it away.
As she grew, so did her curves. I would be lying if I said while looking at her my eyes or my mind didn’t go astray. Puberty is such a gift. It suddenly gives losers like me, enough courage to say something that we have been wanting to say since like 7-8 years or something...
We were in the 8th grade I guess. I asked her to wait after school. Apparently I had some important stuff about Annual day that I had to discuss with her.
After school as I walked down the steps with her, I thought to myself - I can walk these steps all my life with her.
I held her hand, softly at first. She stopped but she didn’t pull her hand away. Her eyes were fixed on the stairs. I thought of all the things I could say. You practice saying things in front of the mirror and stuff, but it just doesn’t work. I thought of all the cool things I could say and then came up with this -"I wish these stairs would never end."
Really! I came up with that. I was so proud of myself. She looked at me, and then held my hand firmly. I took that as a yes.
Years later she told me that that line was the lamest excuse to hold her hand. I pity all those guys whom I have suggested this line. No wonder all my male friends are single.
After our board exams, we made sure we gave the same entrance exams. Both of us wanted to get into engineering. She got better scores than me (like always) and chose Electronics in a top notch college. I managed to get in Mechanical in the third best college in the area. She cancelled her admission, much against the wishes of her parents to be with me. She gave up electronics and took up Mechanical for me. Remember I told you a girl loves only after a certain age? I knew that she loved me then.We gave the CAT last year. She again got a better score and made it in IIM in the first round. I was lucky to get in the last round in the same class. But I got in. Thank God for that.
Today, sometimes, when we go to mess together for lunch, she walks beside me...her eyes fixed to the ground... I whisper something in her ear and she smiles.
Even today when I look at her, I sometimes still see the same innocent girl I had met on the first day of school. Here we are now- we attended the same school for 12 years, then went to the same engineering college in the same class and now are in the same class in IIM. God had a script written for us, didn’t he? I love the fact that there is someone who knows me more than I know myself. I hope someday I get to know her, better than she knows me.
I find it amazing... she’s the same girl who once offered me a fast pencil so that I could finish my paper on time and not get a scolding from my mother... and here she is walking next to me to the mess of our Management College. We walk up the stairs to the first floor mess and I say - "I wish these stairs would never end."And she bursts out laughing.

P.S. Dedicated to NK and PALS (names abbreviated to protect identity) of RGIT who have been in the same class since the first grade, all through their engineering and now MBA. Someone wrote a script for you guys!
This is more of their story than mine, hence the dedication. Best of luck guys god bless you …..

Tuesday, August 16, 2016


परवा संध्याकाळी जेवायला बसलो होतो आणी जेवता जेवता बायकोने आठवण करून दिली … ह्याचवेळी एक वर्षाअगोदर तू लेह-लडाख च्या टूरसाठी श्रीनगरला पोहोचलेला होतास. डोळ्यासमोरून एकेक चित्र फिरू लागल…श्रीनगरला पोहोचल्यावर दल सरोवरावर एका हाउसबोटीत राहायची सोय,तिथला आम्हाला टोपी चढवणारा नावाडी,संचारबंदीमुळे जबरदस्ती श्रीनगरला वाढलेला एक दिवस, नंतरचा झोजिला पासचा कर्रर्र्रगीलपर्यंत(तिथल्या स्थानिक लोकांचा ऊच्चार) अगदी रोमांचकारी परुंतु पाऊसामुळे दरड कोसळण्याच्या शक्येतेमुळे धोकादायक झालेला प्रवास,दरीच्या अगदी काठाने गाडी जाताना पोटात पडलेला भला मोठा खड्डा, कारगील मधल्या तंबूत काढलेली रात्र,आर्मी कॅन्टीन मध्ये जेवण,कारगील ते रंग्दुमच्या प्रवासात अरण्यात मधेच कुठतरी थांबून एका भल्या मोठ्या खडकावर मिळून खाल्लेले घरचे खाऊ, रंग्दुमला पर्वता शेजारी ठोकलेले तंबू,रात्री केलेली शेकोटी, शेकोटीभवती बसून प्यालेले आर्मी ब्रांडचे "गरम पाणी", गोठवणा ऱ्या गारठयात तंबूत काढलेली रात्र, मध्यरात्री कधीतरी अचानक पडलेला बर्फ आणि "कोणाचेतरी" बेंबीच्या देठापासून ओरडणारी आवाजयुक्त किंकाळी "मी रात्रभर इथे राहिलो तर मारून जाईन रे वाचवा ", सामान घेऊन मिट्ट काळोखात आसरा शोधायला धावणारे सर्व गडी, एका धनगराच्या दगडी घरात घेतलेला आसरा,त्याच्या प्रार्थनेच्या खोलीत ऊब मिळाल्यामुळे उजेडास्तव ढाराढूर ताणून देणारे आम्ही,उठल्यावर गुडगुड टी , अख्या प्रवासात खाल्लेली असंख्य मॅगी पॅक्स,परत प्रवास,मधेच कुठतरी उंच डोंगरात थांबून जाडजूड मोरमॉन्टच्या बिळाजवळ झोपून काढलेला त्यांचा रानफुले खात असलेला फोटू, डोंगरातून प्रवास करताना मध्येच लागलेली छोटी छोटी गावं,त्यात असलेली नीटनेटकी घरे ,एखाद्या घराच्या ओटीवर खेळत असलेली छोटीशी गोंडस मुले,आमच्या गाडीला बघून त्यांनी केलेले टाटा,त्याचं ते निरागस हास्य आणि हात दाखवण बघून माझ्या छोटीच्या आठवणीने हृद्यात झालेली कालवाकालव,उंचचउंच बर्फाळलेल्या डोंगरावरून प्यायचा पाणी खाली आणायला पद्धतशीरपणे केलेले पाण्याचे मार्ग ,त्याच्या नंतरचे बरेचशे अंतर कापून नजरेत येणारी झन्सकार दरी (zanskar valley),झन्सकार दरीत पदुममधे एका होमस्टेत काढलेल्या ३ रात्र,तिथेच खाल्लेले स्थानिक पदार्थ ,मोमोस आणि थुक्पा, उंच डोंगरात अगदी कडेवर वसलेल्या बर्याच रंगीत गोम्पानां (Monastery) दिलेल्या भेटी.वर्षानूवर्षे चालत आलेली परंपरा,गोम्पामधे राहणारे ते लामा (Monks),आणि शिक्षण घेणारी लालबुंद गालांची इवलीशी छोटी छोटी मुलं,त्या लहानग्यांच्या निष्पाप डोळ्यात हरवून गेलेला मी, इनोवा चालवणारा व थोडासा शांत स्वभावाचा परंतु डोंगरातल्या खडकाळ रस्त्यातून सफाईदारपणे गाडी काढणारा युसुफभाय,स्कॉरपिओ चालवणारा आणि आम्हाला स्थानिक गाणी तसेच बरेच रीतीरिवाज व तिथले बारकावे प्रेमाने समजवणारा व अगदी डॉट सांगितलेल्या वेळेवर हजर राहणारा लोभज्यांग (ह्यानेच आम्हाला जुले बोलून स्थानिक लोकांना कसं अभिवादन करावं ते शिकवलं ), तिथे भासलेली आणि जणू परिसरातच मिसळलेली व सगळीकडे पसरलेली प्रचंड शांतता,परतीचा प्रवास,दरांग-दुरुंग हिमनदी,मधेच कुठल्यातरी दुर्गम ठिकाणी अशक्य असा निळ्या पाण्याचा जलाशय बघून थांबवलेली स्कॉरपिओ, जवळच असून देखील तिथे चालत पोचताना झालेली माझी दमछाक,(एकूण ह्या संपूर्ण प्रवासात नवीन हवामानाशी किंवा परिस्थितीशी (High Altitude) नीट न रूळण्यामुळे बराचसा प्रवासात मी गोगलगाय किवां Zombie झालो होतो… म्हंजी व्हायचं काय की ह्या समुद्रसपाटीपासूनची उंच व विरळ ऑक्सिजन असलेल्या वातावरणात दोन पावलं टाकली रे टाकली का माझ्या हृदयाचे ठोके आणि छातीची धडधड असली वाढायचे की न सांगितलेली बरी), असो , त्या जलाशयाजवळ एकदाशे पोहोचल्यावर त्या निळ्या पाण्यात पाय पसरून बसायला आलेली मजा,परत गाठलेलं कारगील,तिथे केलेली खरेदी,महामार्गा शेजारी असलेल्या ढाब्यात घेतलेलं जबरदस्त चविष्ट जेवण (आम्ही बटर रोटीची ऑर्डर दिल्यावर तंदूर मधल्या गरम रोटीवर अतिशय काळजीपूर्वक व सावकाशपणे डब्यातलं अमूल त्यावर थापणारा धाब्याचा कॅशियर / मालक )…. वेगळ्याच अश्या दुनियेत मी रमून गेलो होतो आणि एकनाअनेक चित्र सरसरत डोळ्या समोरून फिरत होती तेवढ्यात अचानक माझी मांडी हलवून माझी छोटी मुलगी मला म्हणाली ड्याडा तुझा फोने आहे… भानावर येउन मी तिच्या हातातला माझा मोबाईल घेतला आणि कानाला लाऊन "हॅलो" म्हणालो . पलीकडून आवाज आला "जय हिंद साब … मै कॅप्टन अजमीनदर पाल बोल रहा हू,पंजाब रेजिमेंट से, आप हमें ठीक एक साल पहिले झोजिला पास में मिले थे.…… !!!!! (TO BE Continued….)
View From Our Tent at Rangdum ....Dat is Before the temperature dropped down a lil bit -4°C

Sunday, August 7, 2016

A Surprisingly Happening Weekend

A friend's promise of showing me a lifer (ODKF)vanished into thin air of disappointment and bitterness.So to cheer myself up and to lift the mood I went birding by giving the Sunday afternoon nap a miss.Nature as usual did not disappoint and put up such a splendid SPLENDID display that all that disappointment now seems a very distant what happened? Here we go....
Biking to the hotspot I saw a pair of Indian spot billed ducks foraging faraway. Not having a decent shot of this species in my records I decided to approach the bird carefully .As I crawled through the mud and water to get a good shot the male amongst the pair noticed my movement and became alert.I desperately try to lay still even as the muddy water soaks my trousers and my Tshirt. I manage to fire couple of shots before the pair gets fidgety and take off. As am about to get up I hear a small commotion from behind some bushes on my right side.Still lying in the water I carefully take a peek and see that the cries are comming out from a frogs mouth who has been caught by a snake who is in the process of swallowing him !!!! As I fire another round of shots of the snake with it's catch I notice TWO watercock's grazing nonchalantly further ahead . clicking some pics of the two I stand up all dripping wet.
Standing up I notice a group of Indian Silverbill and some strawberry finches on a couple of branches.I take a couple of shots and make my way towards the tar road. I put the camera in my bag (HUGE MISTAKE) so I could clean myself a little. Iam busy cleaning the sand and mud from my clothes when a quail, with her two small chicks trailing behind, comes out and starts crossing the road . keeping my eyes on the quail family I begin removing my camera when all of a sudden a wild cat, it's golden coat all glistening in the afternoon sun, leaps out and lunches up in the air from behind some bushes and pounces on the mother quail. Missing its mark at the first attempt it leaps again in the air but the quail is too fast for it and calling out loud alarm calls it leaps in the air and disappears in the thick undergrowth on the opposite side of the road. This happens so quickly and instantly that I couldn't even get the camera out of my bag. My heart racing I somehow retrieve the camera and began searching behind the bushes to see if the wildcat is still hiding somewhere, but there's no sign of it anywhere. Waiting at the spot of another 10 min gets me nothing so I decide to call it a day . Riding my bike home with the wind in my hair there's a huge huge smile on my face. What a unexpected and a lovely afternoon this turned out to be.
Cherry on the top : As I sit down at my home to write this down I hear heavy and loud calling of a white breasted waterhen from the window. I grab the camera lying around and slowly slit open the shade and click this beauty calling out from the top of a tree !!!!
What a lovely awesome day this was.

Tuesday, June 21, 2016


My friend Pastan sounded me out sometime back in January this year for a Tadoba trip being planned around May end by one of his friends. I had just applied for leave for the Pench and Kanha back to back safaris (You can read about both the trips here : and ) and hence was extremely reluctant to make a trip once again to my boss’s cabin to sanction another round of holidays. But having visited Tadoba a couple of times before,the Forrest beckoned once again.After much deliberations and discussions I finally had an ok from the boss and we were on for Tadoba. Apart from knowing each other Pastan and I knew no one else from the group hence I was a little worried about how things might work out. Looking back my fears or worries turned out to be a just that and our group had such an awesome time that a next trip with the same people is being finalised as I write this blog. It was to be one of the most memorable trip there was both in terms of the sightings and due to all the wonderful individuals involved. Numerous discussions were held on WhatsApp and FB in anticipation of the trip. Including me and Pastan the Group consisted of ten people in total. There were Rohan and Saurabh who had planned the trip, then there was Parag, Akshay, Priyam, Ganesh, Shefali and the senior most member amongst us all shirish Kaka.

The D-day finally arrived and we were on our way. The Train destined for Chandrapur left Dadar as scheduled at 3.15 PM. Me and Pastan were booked in a separate compartment and hence were seated away from the main group. In spite of some herculean efforts by Rohan he could not get anyone to exchange our seats and be in the same compartment as others. After a light nap we joined Rohan and Company in their compartment for dinner. Everyone had bought along some or the other delicacy from home and it was an awesome feast as we had a delicious dinner in the moving train. Dinner over and it was time for a game of cards. It was great fun as players were randomly placed in groups to play court play. Amidst great enthusiasm and pulling each other’s legs no one noticed that it was almost one thirty on the clock!! Eyes Heavy with sleep we retired to our respective berths for some shut eye.

I was woken from my slumber by the incessant “chai-chai” sloganeering of the chailwallahs. Freshening up I saw that the train had halted for the bogey change at wardha. This phenomenon is unique and one of a kind for the Indian Railway. Let me explain – After the train reaches Wardha three AC bogies or coaches and four sleeper class ones are disengaged from the Sewagram Express (Name of the train that you take from Mumbai) and they are then attached to the Ballarshah passenger express which then travels to Chandrapur Station. We reached Chandrapur just after ten in the Morning. Getting in one of the sumo’s waiting for us we quickly begin to move towards Moharli gate. Travelling for about 10kms we reached the Padmapur gate and then leaving behind the Nagarjira Village we passed the Nawargoan Chowki of the Tadoba Buffer Zone. At both these gates our driver signed in the register as per forest department regulations.  

 We reached the Forrest department guest house – our stay for the entire duration- just before noon. This Guest house is situated just a few minutes away from the Moharli entry gate and walking distance from the Devada Buffer gate. After completing the check in formalities Rohan placed our order for lunch while we freshened up. What was to be a regular feature during our stay here Akshay and Priyam rustled up delicious glasses of a body cooling drink made from kokum syrup – Much needed to beat the Nagpur’s killer heat. Refreshed we walked over to the canteen situated in the Main compound for Lunch. Lunch was simple but tasty vegetarian meal. I would advise anyone staying here to give the Non-Veg stuff a miss and try out the sumptuous veg food the local ladies here rustle up. Trust me after eating the delicious food, Bhakri’s and other stuff you won’t miss the Non-Veg much. Lunch over we headed to our rooms to get ready for our first safari of the trip. 

Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve is one of the finest and largest National Parks in Maharashtra. It is one of 47 project tiger reserves existing in India. It lies in Chandrapur district of Maharashtra state. This beautiful wild paradise is situated 45 kms from Chandrapur District of the Indian State of Maharashtra, and is about 150 km from Nagpur city which is the nearest airport for visiting Tadoba national park. Its name 'Tadoba' is derived from the name of God "Tadoba" or "Taru" which the local tribal people believed in, whereas "Andhari" is derived from name of Andhari River. It is believed that Taru was the village chief who was killed in a fierce encounter with a Tiger and thus a shrine was made in remembrance of God Taru. This region was predominantly ruled by Gond tribes which had their own Kingdom in large area of Central India. Their descendants can still be seen in the local villages.

By the time we were ready our driver Rattan had already arrived. Proceeding to the gates we got in line for the Entry. Our gypsy had Saurabh, Ganesh, and Shefali occupying the front seats while I and Pastan sat at the Back. Guide for all our rides was to be Bandu. Some Lines for our Driver Rattan and guide Bandu. Both these gentlemen are the best in the business that I have seen so far. Most importantly they work even better when they are put together. The calm and composed Bandu has a soothing effect on the energetic and active Rattan as he drives. Both are immensely knowledgeable in the ways of the jungle and in tracking animals and make up for each other what the other lacks. Having knowledge sometimes invariable gets to one’s head but both these fellows are exception to this. Patiently and respectfully answering all my quires, offering additional titbits of info, pointing out small facts about the Tigers that we saw, placing the safari jeep in such a way that we got the perfect angle to shoot, maneuvering the gypsy carefully whenever the Tiger was on the move both Rattan and Bandu managed to do almost everything so perfectly that I was amazed at the way they went beyond their call of duty. Whatever shots and amazing sightings that we managed to get has to do in a large part to these guys efforts. Kudos to both of them. 

Today on the very first safari we decided to check the Telia Dam Area. It was here that the famous documentary “Tiger Sisters of Telia” which was aired on Discovery Channel was filmed. It documents the incredibly unique relationship between the tiger sisters named Mona, Geeta, Lara and Sonam. Blood ties them together, but instinct tears them apart. It is a coming-of-age story as the four sisters battle each other for dominance over their homeland. Once the girls grow older and stronger, instinct kicks in and they must separate and compete to take their mothers place for control of Telia Lake. Their bond is broken and the family is torn apart. To survive independently, each sister must make one large kill every week and alone, they each struggle. Desperate and starving, the four sisters make a startling choice. They join forces to hunt as a pack and take on dangerous prey, culminating in a never-before-filmed hunt of a tiger family taking down a sloth bear. They are feared, they are relentless, and together, they are unstoppable. In a matter of days, the tiger sisters become fearless and unstoppable taking down a couple of sambar’s and stalking a guar (Indian Bison). Known to be solitary animals, tigers not only prefer to live alone but also hunt on their own. Among the four, Sonam was the most aggressive and dominant one. She has now chased away her three sisters and mother from Telia and has taken over the area and has her own cubs from a huge male tiger who is called Bajrang. While the mother who had shifted to the buffer area has since died, the three sisters have marked Mudholi, Jakana-Junona and Devada as their individual territories. Just recently there was a sighting reported about one of Sonam’s sister-Lara from the Telia lake area with three cubs of her own who are around 4 to 5 months old.

As we took the turn on the road leading to the Telia Lake we could see couple of gypsies gathered near the far end and people standing and pointing excitedly in the bamboo grooves situated at some height opposite the water body and adjacent to the road that runs almost hugging the entire stretch of the lake. Now instead of going and joining the clump of gypsies at the far end (as some gypsies behind us did) our Driver Rattan very intelligently stopped our vehicle somewhere in between and told us to wait quietly. I could only see the wisdom in his words and actions later when after an agonising wait of some few minutes unbelievingly a Tiger Cub walked over from the dense bamboo grooves and sat bang opposite our gypsy straight at 12oclock!!! This was the male cub of the Tigress Sonam (Approx. 10 months old) who sometimes roamed his mother’s area alone. I was standing on my seat to get an eye level shot and to compensate the height at which the cub sat. Few meters separated me and the tiger cub who was studying me with his huge curious eyes. As he sat in the bamboo groove there were a lot of disturbing bamboo leaves and shoots that came in between as I struggled to get a shot while at the same time managing to keep my balance and foothold. I switched on to manual focus and fired a couple of shots. A Wild tiger at such close proximity is a rarity and after some time I kept the camera aside on the seat and soaked in the experience and got lost in the innocence shining out through the cubs eyes. Eventually getting up the cub stretched himself a couple of times and giving a huge goodbye Yawn disappeared back in the jungle.

Sonam's Male Cub at Telia

We decided to move on and check the Yenbodi waterhole which is almost adjacent but on the other side to the Telia Lake.Finding nothing there we proceeded to the Pandherpauni Waterhole number two. Reaching there we found out that there were number of gypsies waiting at the opening. Rattan our driver found a good spot for us amongst the lot. I could see Maya siting with her three cubs (two females and one male) in the tall grass adjacent to the waterhole. After waiting for some time the Male cub came out in the open nearer to the water, stretched himself couple of times before walking back to his mother sitting in the grass. Soon one of the Female cub walked out in the open and after walking towards us for a short distance defecated. After finishing its business it walked over to the water’s edge and sat near some rocks with its back to us. Another Female cub followed soon enough and sat adjacent to the first in almost identical position. The third male cub joined its sisters after some moments. Even though Maya stayed put up in the grass it was an awesome sight to see the three cubs out in the open and feel the camaraderie that they shared with each other. They were in quite a playful mood. I got this frame when the naughtiest of the three had climbed on the other cub and both of them were playing with each other.

Maya's Playful cubs 
With an eye on the watch and time drawing closer to head out of the gates our guide Bandu signaled to us to be seated. Even though we did not want to leave this awesome site of the cubs playing with each other, exit time decided by The Forrest department and its regulations needed to be respected and we headed to the gates.

But The Tadoba Jungle and Nature both were not done for the day. As we passed the Tadoba lake on the way out to the gates Guide Bandu pointed out a Raptor sitting on a tree adjacent to the lake. It was a grey headed fish Eagle – A Lifer for Me!!! Clicking some snaps of the majestic bird we moved ahead. Near the Chital Road area where the route splits into two we had taken the Tar road when moving ahead we saw two gypsies in front of us slowing down a bit. We soon came to know the reason – An Indian Sloth bear was ambling along casually under the fallen trees lying on the left side. The bear then decided to change paths and crossed the road in front of our gypsy before disappearing into the bushes. Light was really low as I picked up my camera and ramping up the ISO fired off a couple of shots hoping that I had managed to capture this rarity decently.

Grey Headed Fish Eagle and Indian Sloth Bear
What an awesome first day and first safari this was. Five Tigers One of which was almost too close for comfort, a lifer of a bird and a Sloth bear as a cherry on the top to finish off the day. With High spirits and huge smiles we exited the Gate. Reaching our hotel, over chilled glasses of kokum, all excited talk focused on the day’s sightings. Photos clicked were shared,commented,critiqued and praised as everyone took turns to freshen up. Dinner was had and everyone called it a day.

Post morning activities we left for our second safari of the trip. Telia Lake being closest to the Moharli Gate gypsies from this gate normally check out the Telia Dam area First up. As we reached the Lake we saw Sonam’s Male cub walking on the dirt track ahead of us. He was alone and was stalking one of the Several Sambar deer’s grazing on the green grass on the lake shores.
Sonam's Male cub Stalking a Sambar 
The Cub reached and ducked near a bush on the road and quietly got out from the other side facing his prey. The Sambar oblivious to the threat and totally engrossed in its feeding was coming closer and closer to the bush and with it to the Tiger Cub who was hiding in it. Even though the Cub had chosen an impossibly large sized prey compared to its own size and strength we were eager to see what the outcome would be. As the Sambar drew even more close to the Cub some sixth sense made it suddenly stop dead in its track. Raising its head the Sambar sniffed the air and letting out couple of huge alarm calls took off into the lake waters. The Cub stayed put for some time in the bush contemplating its efforts and maybe the failure. Then as we waited it slowly made its way through the thick tall grass growing adjacent to the lake waters and made its way to the dam and started climbing the paved stoned slope. Reaching on the top it turned around to give one last look at the line of waiting gypsies and disappeared on the other side of the Dam.

The Look by Sonam's cub before disappearing behind the Dam.
We moved ahead through the road which passes almost hugging the Telia Lake and on the way to the Panderpauni water holes we saw a huge number of deer which were busy grazing in the grasslands. What a lovely sight it was.

Deer Gathering 
Reaching Yenbodi waterhole we were pleasantly surprised to see a Tiger immersed in the water cooling himself from the unbearable heat. This was Bajrang - the Male Tiger of this Area. He was Sonam’s Paramour as well as the Father of her three cubs. It was with Bajrang that Waghdoe - the earlier resident male of this area had a territorial fight. Bajrang was the winner and a gravely injured Waghdoe then had to move into the Moharli Buffer area. This huge Male tiger sat in the water cooling himself for almost an hour. Giving us numerous poses and expressions he finally decided that he had enough of the attention and getting up went inside the bushes.

Bajrang at the Yenbodi waterhole

Third Safari (Evening) we first checked the Yenbodi waterhole and finding it empty went off to check the Jamunbodi Talab. There’s a paved pathway that climbs up a steep hill which takes you to a tiny cliff which overlooks downwards to the waterhole. This is the area frequented by two of the most well-known and huge Male tigers Matkasur and Gabbar. Tigress “choti Tara” also frequents this area. Looking down at the small water body that now remains in the summer we could see a Sambar immersed in the sludge and couple of deer having a drink. Our guide Bandu wanted to check out the 97 waterhole which sometimes was frequented by Matkasur. On the way there right on the turn of the 97 waterhole we found a pair of wild dogs busy in their own world. Some years ago huge packs of wild dogs used to roam the Jungles of Tadoba but now their population has drastically declined and only a few can be intermittently seen. Both these wild dogs were in a very playful mood and gave us plenty of poses with their antics. After spending almost thirty minutes shooting them we reluctantly turned towards the waterhole. Reaching there we found it almost empty, I say almost because in the absence of any bigger predator there were plenty of birds in the vicinity due to the presence of water. There was a Rufous Treepie Sitting quietly on a tree branch, couple of Purple sunbirds took turns taking a sip from the waterhole, A Magpie Robin trying to scare everyone away, a pair of Racket Tailed Drongo’s playing hide and seek with each other, a Black Napped Monarch sitting quietly on the water’s edge.

Towards the Yenbodi Waterhole  
Everything seemed so peaceful when suddenly a herd of wild Boar started entering the water from the left raised side of the waterhole while at the same time two wild dogs which we had seen earlier came to have a drink from the right side. Seeing the wild dogs the boars immediately backed off inside the bush. The wild dogs continued their playful antics inside the water at the same time quenching their thirst and after they had their fill decided to have a go at the wild boar family!!! Both the wild dogs started moving very cautiously towards the bush where the wild boars had taken refuge. But as they neared the bush both of them suddenly lost interest and moving further away from the waterhole they soon disappeared in the jungle.

WIld Dogs or Dhole 

Seeing the cost clear the wild boar family made their way into the water and started to hungrily gulp it. 

WIld boars quenching their thirst

We took off from there and reached the Pandherpauni Waterhole No.1., which was empty save for a lone lesser adjutant stork fishing for its breakfast. On the way towards the second waterhole a group of tiny Grey Francolin chicks crossed our path. We stopped to take a couple of shots but these cuties were too fast for us and our cameras.

 Reaching the Pandherpauni Waterhole number two we saw that it was chock-a-block with gypsies and two canters. Maya and her cubs were sitting inside the tall grass and everyone were waiting for her to come out in the open. Guys from Our other gypsy which had Rohan, Priyam, Parag, Akshay and shirish Kaka were parked just ahead of us. A small photo shoot took place with the guys shooting us from their gypsies and us shooting them in various poses.

All the Gems who made this trip an incredibly Awesome experience - A BIGTHANK YOU 
Knowing the futility of a sighting in such a noisy crowd Guide Bandu decided to move ahead and told our driver Rattan to head out for the gates as the park closing time was almost upon us. On the way back we had small halt near the stream which flows opposite the Forrest department rest house to take a couple of shots of a Sambar deer with huge antlers grazing in the grass.

Sambar Deer 
Our First night in the FD guest house was pretty uncomfortable for lack of cooling due to the faulty Air-conditioner installed in our room. While leaving for the safari we had instructed the Manager to have the AC repaired. Now on returning we found that there was absolutely no improvement so Pastan had a word with the concerned official who allotted a stand by room, reserved for higher ups, to us for the night. After freshening up we gathered here and played a couple of round of cards. Parag our “prime” mover was the star of the show during these games and also of the tasty dinner that followed afterwards.

Somewhere someplace an alarm buzzed on loudly. It was 4.30am early morning .All I wanted was to sleep Just a lil bit more but I put the mind over the mattress and jumped out of the bed. After Freshening up we were ready for our fourth safari of the trip. We decided to give Telia a miss and straightway headed to the Yenbodi waterhole. Waiting here for just a few minutes and Bajrang - the huge resident male whom we had seen yesterday made his royal entrance from behind the waterhole. I had Photographed Bajrang yesterday for quite some time hence I hardly shot a few frames of him sipping water and lazing in it and basically enjoying the attention he was getting from the gypsies around. My friend Pastan on the other hand standing beside me in the gypsy was burning his card like there was going to be no tomorrow on his 10 frames per second 7D MII. Further while going On the Tadoba Main road we came across a Sloth bear busy grabbing some breakfast on some termite hills. Moving methodically from one hill to another we couldn’t frame him properly due to plenty of vegetation in between. We were now headed towards The Tadoba Lake.  
The Tadoba Lake is a sanctuary in itself for the denizens of the forest, who struggle to keep body and soul together during these torrid summer months. It’s a serene vast Lake amidst the thick jungles of Tadoba. A waterbody which never dries up, even in the scorching heat of the harsh Central Indian summer. Sambar deer love wallowing in the pond, feasting on the submerged vegetation. Herds of Chital thankfully lap the water along the banks, drinking on a state of high alert. Ruddy mongooses scurry along, grabbing a sip or two. A crocodile lazes in the water on the shore with its jaws open. Wild boars find time to enjoy a gooey mud-bath. A grey Headed fish eagle watches the water preying for its breakfast. An Oriental Honey Buzzard hungrily quenches its thirst and then flies high up on its favorite perch on one of the tall trees surrounding the lake. An impatient pond heron tries to ambush the butterflies flying around. A herd of gaur casually ambles into the murky water, protectively shielding its juveniles by keeping them in the centre. Surprisingly, tourists hate to see this bustling activity at the waterhole. The Reason? : It means that the tiger is not around!!!

Tadoba Lake is a sanctuary in itself
But suddenly couple of shrill alarm calls ring out and echo in the surroundings and above the calm and tranquil waters of the Tadoba Lake, and all hell breaks loose. The pond is vacated in a jiffy. The sambar’s till now drinking so peacefully on the waters make a run for cover in the jungle, The Oriental Honey Buzzard takes off into the sky, wild boars lazily lost in their muddy pool immediately scramble and simultaneously register their protests by loud snorts, herds of deer grazing on the adjacent green grass run helter-skelter. The queen of the Tadoba Lake is on her way, it’s her turn to quench her thirst, and cool in the inviting blue waters of the Lake.

Our Gypsy driver Rattan parks our vehicle at the forked road and waits. He Motions towards the hilly area on the opposite side of the road, looks at me and says “she is going to come from there to over here, walk in front of you and go to the lake, please be ready with your Camera settings for a Head on shot”. I look at him in amusement but the look on his face is all of seriousness. Suddenly out of nowhere you see the reigning queen appear from the far side of the road, walking head-on towards you. What you feel at that time is unparalleled. As I swing the camera from my shoulders and prepare to shoot Rattan smiles indulgently at me and winks.

The Majestic and beautiful Maya is least bothered by the scores of cameras trained on her. She walks with a confident stride and unfazed abundance. Walking head on for couple of meters towards our gypsy she passes barely a few inches away from where I stand on the vehicle.

The one and Only - M A Y A 
Hair stand straight on the back of my neck and I have Goosebumps all over my body. I have momentarily forgotten that I have a camera in my hand and my fingers have slipped from the trigger. I am fully mesmerized by this Golden beauty walking past me. Going past our vehicle she marks the adjacent tree with a burst of her spray, sniffs the air for any unusual scents and walks majestically on the dirt road which is now closed for tourists. This road runs almost touching the shores of the Tadoba Lake. Going ahead she sniffs deeply at the inclined tree branches bent on the dirt road and turns back and heads to the Lake waters. Walking briskly on the shores of the vast blue lake she takes in her territory, spray marking a tree trunk here – sniffing for any new scents on some bushes there but at all-times walking with a grace typical for a queen. After walking for some time near the shore she decides to cool in the lake waters.

 Finding a suitable spot she lowers herself back first (Typical tiger behaviour-Tigers hate getting any water on their faces) in the water. Lapping hungrily at the cool water she has her full and relaxes while sitting back in the lake. Changing plenty of positions she gave ample amount of poses for the shutter bags. Rattan had very expertly kept pace with Maya’s walk and now we were right in front from where she sat cooling herself in the lake waters. At every such moment of this safari trip I am reminded of the immense skill and patience that both our driver Rattan and guide Bandu put in it for us, and whatever images that we got have a good amount of contribution of these two. After soaking in the cool waters of the Tadoba Lake to her heart’s content Maya got out and started walking back to the dirt road that all the gypsies were positioned on. Getting back on the road she walked a few kilometers towards the FD guest house Road with all the gypsies tailing her and then disappeared into the Jungle. 
Queen Of The Tadoba Lake - One And Only MAYA
After witnessing this great Maya show we decided to check out The Telia Dam and lake area which we had purposefully given a miss in the morning. Everything seems quite and calm as we reached there. But Tiger sighting or not I have come to just love this area in Tadoba. The lovely lake spread out on one side, bamboo shrubs on some height on the other side, long winding dirt road hugging the lake and showcasing its vast spread. If it was up to me I would park my jeep under the small tree on the edge of the turn and spend a relaxed and carefree quality time pondering on the mysteries of life. We waited here relaxing for some time on my insistence and as time to exit the gates came up called it a day and returned to the guest house. We were allotted a new room opposite our old one and thankfully this had an excellent AC. Having lunch we retired to bed for some shut eye.

Getting ready for the fifth (Evening) safari we had a minor reshuffling amongst our two gypsies. Shefali from our group was suffering from the terrible heat and required some much needed rest so it was decided that for the last two safaris Parag would join us from the other gypsy while Ganesh who till now graced us with his presence would be with the other group in their safari Jeep. At the entry gates some good natured ribbing took place amongst members of the two gypsies as to who would have better sightings now that members where interchanged and some shuffling had occurred. Playful Bets were placed as to which gypsy was going to have Lady Luck smiling at her and get more sightings.
Once inside the gates our first stop was to check the Yenbodi waterhole. We reached there to find the Tigress Sonam lounging in the water. She was continuously calling out for her cubs. We waited eagerly in the hope of seeing a family get together in the water with Sonam and her three cubs but the cubs did not make an appearance. Soon Sonam got out of the waterhole and disappeared inside the thicket behind. No sooner had she left Bajrang made an appearance and occupied the place. Soaking in the water for some time he too got up and went inside the Jungle. From here we decided to check out the Telia Dam area.

Reaching Telia we saw Sonam again sitting in the Lake and realised that after leaving the Yenbodi waterhole she had made her way to Telia through the Jungle. Even now sitting in the waters she was continuously calling out. Her male cub who roamed around alone in her area and whom we had seen on our very first day safari was not seen by any gypsy for couple of safaris now. Our guide Bandu made a guess that maybe she was searching for this cub and hence was calling so feverishly all the time. Continuing her calls she got up from the lake waters and slowly made her way through the thick tall grass growing adjacent to the lake waters and to the dam and started climbing the paved stoned slope. Reaching on the top she continued with her consistent calling, moving her head in all directions while giving the calls, and later climbed down to the other side. Unseen from anyone on the dirt track and from us from where we had parked the gypsy on the turn besides the lake under the shady tree we could still hear her loud calls as she searched for the cub behind the dam wall. We waited for some time till her calls started getting stronger again and she emerged from behind the shrubs lining the dam walls and crossed the road behind our gypsy and climbing the small bamboo shrubs disappeared into the bamboo shrubs. Passing through the Kolba area and through the closed Kojba fire line into Yenbodi we later saw her pug marks going into the Waghdoe area. Tracking her we came back to the Yenbodi waterhole only to see Bajrang sitting in the waters cooling himself!!! After spending some time in the waters for more than half an hour this huge male who had defeated the mighty Waghdoe to capture his territory got up to leave. He climbed out of the waterhole and started walking straight on the adjacent bund and then crossing over from the dirt track went into the bamboo shrubs. We parked ourselves at the junction of the Kojba line adjacent to the Waghdoe area hoping that Bajrang crosses the dirt track as he moves towards and into Waghdoe area.  We waited for almost twenty five minutes at the junction but due to continues gypsy movement Bajrang stayed put inside the Bamboo shrubs. After what seemed like an eternity this majestic beast came out and nonchalantly crossed the track in full glare of the numerous gypsies and amidst camera clicks got lost in the jungle in the Waghdoe area.

Clockwise from top : Bajrang at Yenbodi, Sonam in the Telia Lake, Sonam again at Yenbodi 
Returning on the way back to the Hotel everyone in our gypsy is in high spirits after such great sightings. We discuss the day’s happenings with members of our group gypsy and exchange notes with them. Spending another fun filled evening with the group we finished dinner and continued with the stories till eyes heavy with sleep we dozed off.

Last safari of the trip dawned upon us and we were up early and ready for the adventure. Waiting in the queue for the entry gates to open I casually mentioned to our group how exciting and fun it would be if we could get a tigress with her cubs in a single frame. As all the heads nodded in unison everyone knew that it would be a dream come true if it were to actually happen.

We wished the guys from our other gypsy for a happy sighting and were soon on our way. Considering yesterday’s activity Guide Bandu and driver Rattan unanimously decided to first check out the Yenbodi Waterhole. A gypsy with a full day permit (Gypsies with a full day permit are allowed inside the forest gates half an hour earlier then general timings) was standing nearby. We were crestfallen when the folks in that gypsy told us that the three cubs of Sonam were sitting in the water hole together and had just gone back into the jungle and we had missed the action by a matter of few minutes. With disappointment written large on our faces we decided to wait at the waterhole in the hope that the cubs might come out for a drink as the temperature rose. Waiting for another twenty minutes we saw one of the cub very shyly walking on the bund covered with bamboo shrubs. Instead of coming down into the water for a drink the cub walked straight onward on the way towards the junction. We reversed our gypsy and waited near the fire line for it to come out in the open.

One of the Three cubs of Sonam at Yenbodi Waterhole
On reaching the Junction an overpowering stench greeted us. This was coming from the Waghdoe area and our guide Bandu informed us that the tigers must have most likely made a Gaur (Indian Bison) kill and hidden it inside the thickets. Rest of the gypsies had gone ahead in the hopes that the cub seen earlier might cross the road while on its way towards the kill. Ours was the only gypsy kept waiting by our driver Rattan bang on the junction in the hopes that the extremely shy cub backtracks and instead of crossing over and going towards the kill turns back to the Yenbodi waterhole. As mentioned earlier too his instincts turned out to be spot on and the shy cub seeing so many gypsies on his path turned around and peeping from the road quickly darted back towards the Yenbodi waterhole area. Ours was the only gypsy to see this happen and I relished and enjoyed the moment thoroughly as I watched the shy cub quietly peep out from the bamboo bushes and walk down silently on the dirt track towards the Yenbodi waterhole.

Sonam's Other cub Walking back towards the Yenbodi waterhole
It happened so quickly that his crossing was over in a matter of minutes. We sped over to the waterhole from the longer route via the main Tar road as the shorter path taken by the cub was a one way designated by the Forrest department. Upon reaching the waterhole we found it empty save for a lone, huge Indian Bison satiating its thirst. But Waiting here for some time we were rewarded when another cub of Maya made its way from the bamboo shrubs behind the waterhole walking into the water and sitting in it for a good half an hour. Later it got out and curiously surveyed the surrounding area for some time before returning into the bamboo shrubs behind .

One of Sonam's bolder Cub at the Yenbodi waterhole
Moving away from the waterhole we went to the junction again and waited there expecting one of Maya’s cubs to come out and cross the road while going to the kill. We were waiting for some time now when we heard some movement from the bamboo shrubs.  Readying our cameras and training them on the approximate spot we waited with bathed breath for the Tiger to step out.Soon enough a Tiger did step out but it wasn’t a cub but Sonam herself who walked out eyes blazing and calling loudly for her cubs. She crossed over into the Waghdoe area and we could hear her calls as she called her cubs even after crossing over from deep inside the jungle. As she went in, our driver Rattan slowly took us through the road leading to the Ambewadi waterhole in the Waghdoe area and waited near a clearing while pointing out the place from where the tigress may cross over. As predicted by Rattan, Sonam came through the clearing and crossed over to the other side all the time calling for her cub. While we waited at the same spot she went to the now dry Ambewadi waterhole continuously calling and after some time crossed the road again and went back into the bamboo jungle.

We took our position back again at the junction near the Kojba Fire line and waited. Not long afterwards Sonam still calling out continuously came out from the bamboo grooves and crossed once more into the opposite side. Our driver Rattan immediately reversed the gypsy and positioned it on the road so that we could get a Head-on as Sonam looked sure to walk on the dirt track. We were ready with our cameras but another gypsy came from the other end and Sonam changed her mind and crossed the road and made her way back towards the Yenbodi waterhole. Only one logical option left now for us to do was to return to the Yenbodi waterhole, but as mentioned earlier this route being designated a one way only by the FD we had to go over to the waterhole from the longer route via the main Tar road.

Reaching the Yenbodi waterhole from the Main road we were greeted with the awesome sight of Sonam and her three cubs lazing themselves in the muddied water. The whole happy family played with each other while continuously taking sips of the water. It was a moment to savour and cherish and at the same time touching to watch this beauties from such a close quarters. To get Four Tigers in a frame and at such close distance was a dream and a cheery on the top of what was an awesome trip.

Family Portrait : Tigress Sonam with her Three cubs at the Yenbodi Waterhole
I considered it my privilege to see the cubs with their mother and noticed that even though wild they bonded with each other so well. It was almost a surreal and dreamy moment as the family played around in the waters without caring for all the shutter bags going wild with their triggers. After enjoying in the waters for a long long time they left one by one, climbing out from the waterhole and taking the route to Waghdoe area to feast on the Kill. First the cubs and last Sonam got up and walked out. We followed at a safe distance as they walked on the track for some time and crossing over went into the Bamboo shrubs to the left.

Once again Rattan decided to wait at our earlier spot near the clearing on the road leading to the Ambewadi waterhole instead of at the junction where all the gypsies had congregated. We did not have to wait for long as first Sonam walked out of the Thicket followed by all the three cubs. The last cub, shyest of them all, coming out in the open very briefly and bounding back into the shrubs.  She sat under a tree waiting and checking and let all the three cubs go ahead before getting up and disappearing into the Jungle where the kill was hidden.

Sonam with her cubs On her way towards the kill in the Waghdoe area 
This was my last look at the family for this season as monsoon would soon be over the Tadoba National Park when it closes for Visitors. As we made our way to the gates with huge smiles I remembered all the earlier trips I had made to this mysterious and lovely Forrest. Driving endlessly on the dusty, bumpy winding roads, a Silent jungle, no pug marks, no alarm calls, time running out, and the good light fading away, losing hope by the minute and how this trip with Tiger sightings almost raining on us had not only compensated fully for all those dry runs but had exceeded me and my friends expectations by a mile. I remembered this funny image Captured in Tadoba.

Caption for all the 'Tiger-centric' people who visit the parks.

This image and its caption is for all those 'Tiger-centric' people who visit the parks just to see the tiger and forget that there is much more beautiful things in the wild apart from the king himself.

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Important Info You can Use about Tadoba Tiger Reserve:

Total area of the Tadoba Andhari Tiger reserve is 625.4 square kilometres. This includes Tadoba National Park, created in 1955 with an area of 116.55 square kilometres (45.00 sq. mi) and Andhari Wildlife Sanctuary created in 1986 with an area of 508.85 square kilometres (196.47 sq. mi). The reserve also includes 32.51 square kilometres (12.55 sq. mi) of protected forest and 14.93 square kilometres (5.76 sq. mi) of other areas. Densely forested hills form the northern and western boundary of the tiger reserve. The elevation of the hills ranges from 200 m (660 ft.) to350 m (1,150 ft.). To the southwest is the 120 ha (300 acres) Tadoba Lake which acts as a buffer between the park's forest and the extensive farmland which extends up to Irai water reservoir. This lake is a perennial water source which offers good habitat for Muggar crocodiles to thrive. Other wetland areas within the reserve include the Kolsa Lake and Andhari River. Tadoba reserve covers the Chimur Hills, and the Andhari sanctuary covers Moharli and Kolsa ranges. It’s bounded on the northern and the western side by densely forested hills. Thick forests are relieved by smooth meadows and deep valleys as the terrain slopes from north to south. Cliffs, various water bodies and caves provide refuge for several animals. Two forested rectangles are formed of Tadoba and Andhari range. The south part of the park is less hilly.
Tadoba is an ornithologist’s paradise as it houses one of the rarest species of birds. The most famous are the Cuckoos, Larks, Pipits, Drongas, Muniahs, Warblers, Collard Scops Owl, Mottled Wood Owl, Brown Fish Owl, Shikra, White-Eyed Buzzard, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Crested Serpent Eagle, Bonelli’s Eagle,grey headed fish Eagle,Grey Jungle Fowl, Painted Spur Fowl, Red Spurfowl, Plum Headed Parakeet, Black Naped Blue Flycatcher, Golden Oriole, Peacock, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Painted Francolin, Tickell’s Flycatcher, Scimitar Babbler, Indian Pitta, Malabar Pied Hornbill.

The Tadoba Lake, Erai dam, Kolsa Lake and the Andhari River form the lifeline of the Tadoba forest. The astounding ecosystem of this forest is maintained by these water bodies throughout the year. Apart from these a number of creeks and rivulets are present in the forest plains and hills. Man-made water holes look after the thirst needs of the animals during the sweltering summers. Tadoba lies within the periphery of Chimur Hills which comprise the Moharli and the Kolsa range. A variety of landforms surround these ranges. There are deep valleys, rivers, lakes, deciduous forest on the hills and a number of bamboo trees. Such a varied habitat helps sustain many life forms.
Vegetation of Tadoba forest is of Southern tropical dry deciduous type. Teak is the prominent tree species in Tadoba forest. Tadoba national park is open for visitors from 15-Oct to 30-June every season. Despite of this, limited safari is possible from 01-Oct on current booking basis. Tadoba national park remains CLOSED for visitors on every Tuesday. Unlike Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench national parks safari charges here are same for Indian and foreign visitors.

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve is now divided into 3 zones: Mohurli, Tadoba, and Kolsa.

* Only 20 Vehicles per Safari are allowed in every zone i.e. Kolsa, Mohurli & Tadoba

* Out of these 3 zones, Tadoba Zone is in most demand by tourists. This zone has 3 gates and their respective number of vehicles for entry are –

Khutwanda (Vehicles are allowed to go from Mohurli gate): 7 Vehicles

Navegaon (Nearer to Khadsangi): 6 Vehicles

Kolara (close to Chimur): 7 Vehicles.

* Mohurli Zone has only one gate for entry and that is at Mohurli itself. This is the place where all the required facilities are available. At the same time, best of the sightings happened normally in this Zone. This gate has 34 entries available for safari. So vehicles for entry in this single gate are –

To Tadoba : 7 Vehicles

To Mohurli : 20 Vehicles

TO Kolsa: 7 Vehicles

Please note that entry to kolsa from this gate is sometimes closed as per forest department directives .This was the case when we were here. So better inquire and check with the forest department before you plan safaris.

Mohurli gate area has a Reliance Mobile Tower So Cell phone connectivity here is of Reliance only.

* Kolsa Zone is the most beautiful Zone as far jungle quality matters. But the sighting ratio is very low and Animal World here is very shy. This is the least demanded Zone by Tourist. A Forest rest house at Kolsa Village is also available in this Zone for booking. This Zone is also better accessible from Mohurli. This Zone also has 3 Gates for Entry and their respective number of vehicles are –

Mohurli: 7 Vehicles

Pangdi (Close to Sindewahi): 7 Vehicles

Zari (Nearer from Moharli and Chandrapur): 6 Vehicles.